Off The Rhumb Line

Oha Beach

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Friday July 19

Good Morning, this is Team Dixie Chickens and it’s been 2 days since we attended our last party!

The Mongol Rally Checkpoint Beach Party is today at Oha Beach in Constanta, Romania, on the shores of the Black Sea!

Around 3am we had Cujo barking up a storm as he traipsed through our tent site across from the Pomi.  Clearly, we’d squatted on his turf and he had no issues letting us know.   At 6am, Sarah said she was enjoying the wind chimes (AKA cow bells).  Don was not buying her romantic take on the situation – and figured we’d better get out of dodge before pissing off the local herdsman out with their cattle.  We were packed up and on the road by 7:15 am – the beach beckoned!

The mountains quickly gave way, back to the flat agricultural fields with their endless miles of MORE corn, hay, and sunflowers.

We pulled into the beach/campground around 3pm.  Some ran right off for the beach (WITH the cooler of COLD beer!!) which we were lamenting greatly as the rest of us unpacked the gear off of the roof rack and set up the tent site.

The beach here had a BEAUTIFUL set up with it’s own open air bar, chaise lounges and oversized stuffed bean bag body sized pillows under huge white sun shades. There were a ton of Ralliers relaxing and enjoying the warm water, nice breeze and respite from the road.

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Hammocks hung on poles out in the water, along with wooden rafts for the on water fun.

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There was a huge map on the wall for all of us to draw in our routes &  sign.

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This was the perfect venue to spend the last day with 3 of our team mates who would be leaving the bus tomorrow  – Lina and Johnny were headed home to the UK (and REAL jobs – posh!) and Cale was headed off to Germany to see some friends before heading back stateside.  .

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They’ve been wonderful and entertaining to have on the bus and their absence will be duly felt.  Efforts to convince them to stay, despite their wanting to, were unfortunately unsuccessful.

I joined the 3 of them down the beach for a farewell dinner, and lovely walk back along the water to a raucous rally party which had finally gotten underway!  I bailed out around 2am but could hear the thumpy thumpy music for quite some time as I drifted in / out of sleep in my tent.

The NEXT official Rally party……Ulan Baataar – at the FINISH LINE!  – There will undoubtedly be some MAJOR stories to tell there!!

Transfaragasan

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Thursday July 18

After tearing ourselves away from the fabulous fortified church in Cristian, the gentle rolling farm fields quickly gave way to the rising uplifted glacial mountains & craggy peaks of the Transfaragasan.

 

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This  mountain pass is one of THE top roads coveted by sports car enthusiasts the world over for its long series of hairpin “S” curves.

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This is the  2nd highest road in Romania, rising 2,034 meters. Originally built as a military road, it is 90 km of twists and turns running north / south across the tallest sections of the southern Carpathian Mountains.  It connects the regions of Transylvania & Wallachia.

We could only imagine the # of folks who’d come from thousands of miles away only to be stuck behind a school bus!!1 (there’s also an easy way up – via tram – complete with a coca cola logo! – aahh.. SO proud of Corporate America!)

The Bus needed a few rests on the way up, which afforded us a number of great photo op’s, and time to gaze at the grandeur of this beautiful scenery1  (And chat with the bevy of passersby who were intrigued about the bus and our journey!)

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We bypass the big crowds and gift shops near the top and head straight through the tunnel to the other side to get the bus prepped for our photo shoot.  The plan was for Sarita to ride down on the bicycle  (yes, the donated one –  the one with no brakes…) and then time lapse film our descent down the switchbacks.  We would also have video cameras mounted on the bus front and back filming.

Well, best laid plans…….after much consternation, it’s determined that the bike’s tires were so dry rotted they would not hold any air.  So……on to plan “B”.   She’ll need someone up on the roof rack to video our descent.  I was so busy photographing at the summit I TOTALLY missed out on volunteering for this fabulous crazy ass adventure! DARN!  Cale got the job – lucky bastard!  He donned some warmer clothes, and climbed up onto the roof of the bus!  **SO Jealous**!!

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In the meantime, Don has traded said bicycle for a waxed round of local romanian cheese – pretty good deal we think.

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Another rally car has joined us at the top – Team Detour (Swedish).  They also want to photograph us, but it’s taking too long for us to get the cameras mounted and working, so they head on down.

Finally, we’re ready!  We realize the other side is the much more “filmable” one with it’s visually apparent line of “S” turns on the mountain, but this side is equally as stunning in its scenery and we’re all hanging out the windows with our cameras madly snapping away.  Oh yeah, and Cale is having a fab time up top – with the best seat in the house!!

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At some point Team Detour comes screaming past us…..Hey where’d they come from?  Passing us, also going downhill, they are in the uphill / oncoming lane of traffic.  They slow to match our speed and are just in front of, and off our left front bumper.   So, yes, driving down & around a number of blind curves, their photographer has at least half his body hanging out the passenger window turned back toward us, firing off shots of the bus.

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So in the  – which is crazier – a guy on the roof, or speeding around blind curves into oncoming traffic – I think they win!

Bus & Don did a fantastic job up & down – and best of all – no brake overhaul required after the descent!

Back at lower altitude, the twisty road continues on for at least another hour – winding its way  past a massive lake.  Views are hard to come by due to the heavily forested shoreline, but we get occasional glimpses.  There is NOWHERE to pull over.  We later discover this lake is dammed at the far end and the observation tower offers stunning views of the lake and back up to the Transfaragasan & the Carpathian mountains we just drove through.

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It was 7pm and at least another 2 hour drive to Bucaresti.  Finally out of the mountains, we pass a number of small cafes on the side of the road.  The Masses are tired, hungry (for a hot meal!) and most importantly, THIRSTY!!  Don finally relents to our pleas as we pass the parking lot of the Pensiunea Pomi – with “Team Detour’s” car in the parking lot.  A quick u-turn  and we are happily soon sitting on the outdoor patio,  cold beers in hand, viewing some of the awesome footage they shot of our descent.

We are in the small town of Oestii Ungureni and our hosts at the bar are fabulous.  We enjoyed a great meal,  watched the rush hour traffic go by (the occasional horse drawn hay wagons)  and caught up on our posts to the outside world  via the free wi-fi!  I even got my first (for this trip) “…aaah Chicago…blam blam…Al Capone…eh … eh..?”

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This amazing day came to a close with our tents pitched in the field across from the Pomi.

 

 

 

 

The Storks of Cristian

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Wednesday July 17

Driving from Budapest, we arrive in a small town of Cristian, just outside of Sibiu, Romanina near the Transfagarasan.

Sarah has arranged, via Vlad Grigori (sp?) with Team Mongolification, and Liliana, (the Director of The Fortified Churches of Romania),  for us to stay in an absolutely delightful historic old fortified church.  There is a very excited crowd waiting outside the church gate when we arrive at 10pm.

The Bus, with the roof rack stripped of most of it’s luggage, barely manages to squeak just under the low arched gate, and we enterinto their beautiful gardened courtyard.

We are summoned to the kitchen and treated to a traditional Romanian welcome toast.  The church house is full of older gracious German speaking ladies who take excellent care of us.   Inside is a spiral wooden staircase that leads to the 2nd floor and a large room with sleeping for 15 in very comfy beds.

Vlad is hosting a Mongol Rally Party in the nearby town of Sibiu, which most of our team quickly changes clothes for and heads out the door to.  I very much wanted to go, but I decide I must take a pass to catch up on sleep, so I stay behind with Jan.  We had a wonderful time chatting together on the quiet patio under the stars. Sarita also stayed behind to get ready for tomorrow’s filming of our journey on the Transfagarasan.

Everyone agreed the next morning over a delicious scrambled egg, potato, bacon? hash breakfast whipped up by our teammate Calethat it was an awesome party, but that “Free Beer ALWAYS has a price”  (Cale also discovered some wonderful dried/smoked sausages from the smoke cellar in town!)

The most amazing this about this town, is their Storks.  They are EVERYWHERE.  Walking through town, they have built huge nests on top of the electricity poles, chimneys, and rooftops.  They are absolutely beautiful creatures and I am delighted to be able to watch them in their nests with their young, and catch them soaring in flight with their fabulous outstretched and graceful wings.

We lingered in the late morning light of the courtyard and its garden. Don commented “To Hell with the Rally, let’s just stay here!”  We finally packed up around 1pm as the Transfagarasan beckoned us with its mountains, cool weather, and hair pinned curves.

This town has been a wonderful treat – a definite slice of heaven!

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Sunflowers & Haystacks

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We may not have spent much time at all in France, but driving through Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania…I feel like I am in the middle of some Van Gogh and Monet Paintings.

Particularly when golden hour arrives, that wonderful late afternoon sunlight that just glows, the long shadows that draw across the landscape, and the sun kissed endless miles of hay, corn, and sunflower fields just shimmer.

The sky has that almost idyllic quiet about it. White puffy cumulus clouds dotting the sunny blue skies we’ve had every day.  This is one of my very favorite times of day.

It is easy to see where Van Gogh and Monet got their inspiration and to envision them sitting in these fields taking it all in and painting away the day.

It has been mostly flatland, but as we enter Hungary and Romania, the hay bales of  Western Europe give way to haystacks, which mimic the gentle rolling hills.

We’ve camped almost every night so far, and falling asleep under the brilliant star filled sky watching the moon grow from a crescent to nearly full has been wonderful. I can not even imagine what the stars in Kazakhstan and Mongilia will be like.

 

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